National pizza chains use blends of mediocre cheese that don’t taste like anything and are selected merely for meltability. We all know mozzarella, let’s branch out. The best way to enjoy good cheese pizza is to make it at home. 

Some personal favorites:

  • Yeasty, pungent Taleggio with caramelized fennel--add finocchiona salami if you’re a carni [vore]. 

  • Blobs of fresh goat cheese (they’ll soften, not melt) with the last of summer’s zucchini and a showering of thyme. 

  • An autumnal idea from my dear friend Suzanne Lenzer : sweet potato with sage and buttery, fatty Pecorino